R1067 Winter workshop
- millermilla
- Posts: 182
- Joined: Mon May 07, 2007 10:16 pm
- Location: Burgess Hill West Sussex
R1067 Winter workshop
Well nearly all the mini shows are over and the weather is getting cold and wetter so each year I take the mini off the road for a bit of maintenance. This year however it's come off the road a little earlier than expected. Right back as far as the IMM I suspected something wasn't quite right but it's lasted all summer clocking up 4000 miles including the trip to Germany however on the way back from Castle Combe it wasnt a happy bunny so I decided to do some investigating.
I carried out a compression test when I got home from Castle Combe with the engine still hot and found cylinder No.4 right down to 25psi. Suspecting a burnt out valve I took the head off for a closer look.
It didn't take too long to get the head off apart from the head being seized on the centre head stud so I had to use lever bars and rock the head side to side to get it off.
Initial inspection not good! That's a crack between the two valves but surely not enough to drop the compression so far?
Once the valves were out it's easy to see why. Not good at all The crack extends right through both inlet and exhaust valves and a good 1cm deep into the valve chamber rendering the cylinder head pretty much scrap
I've also taken the carb off in preparation for an overhaul
Now all I've got to do is find £700 for a Stage 3 head, better get working some overtime.
I carried out a compression test when I got home from Castle Combe with the engine still hot and found cylinder No.4 right down to 25psi. Suspecting a burnt out valve I took the head off for a closer look.
It didn't take too long to get the head off apart from the head being seized on the centre head stud so I had to use lever bars and rock the head side to side to get it off.
Initial inspection not good! That's a crack between the two valves but surely not enough to drop the compression so far?
Once the valves were out it's easy to see why. Not good at all The crack extends right through both inlet and exhaust valves and a good 1cm deep into the valve chamber rendering the cylinder head pretty much scrap
I've also taken the carb off in preparation for an overhaul
Now all I've got to do is find £700 for a Stage 3 head, better get working some overtime.
Keith Miller
- millermilla
- Posts: 182
- Joined: Mon May 07, 2007 10:16 pm
- Location: Burgess Hill West Sussex
Re: R1067 Winter workshop
I stripped the carb and manifold down, clean and rebuilt the carb and inlet manifold with an SU service kit. I'm just toying with the idea of welding a stub for a dump valve and blocking off the over boost valve so I can run a little more boost when its back together as mine always started to vent off at about 0.5 bar
Keith Miller
- millermilla
- Posts: 182
- Joined: Mon May 07, 2007 10:16 pm
- Location: Burgess Hill West Sussex
Re: R1067 Winter workshop
Big update, not done one for a while!
I got bored waiting for the head so the block has been painted including the gearbox, the starter motor, alternator and distributor have been overhauled and painted, radiator cowl painted all rubber fuel hoses replaced and all the engine steady bushes.
Next up I bought a modified plenum chamber, blanked off the overboost valve and fitted a Bailey dump valve.
Managed to finally get a decent stage 4 head with only 2000 miles since being built. I drove all the way to Telford and back one evening to get the head as I didn't want to risk getting another cracked head to add to my growing collection of scrap cast iron!
30mm Nitrided stainless steel race exhaust valves
36mm Nitrided stainess steel race inlet vlaves with waisted stems
28cc Chambers, Silicon bronze bullet nosed guides with boss restrictions removed, 3 angle valve seats, 185lb double springs and polished / ported
The only problem with the head is that it was missing a hole for a water temperature sensor being a metro turbo head so Dickie from West Sussex Mini Club kindly drilled and tapped the hole for me.
I stripped the head bare which is very hard work getting that enamel engine paint all off. I used a screwdriver as a scraper, wire brush and paint stripper and a lot of elbow grease.
The instructions on the paint can stated warm up engine before applying paint and as the head was not in the car the wife's oven done the trick
I applied 2 coats of acid etch primer, 1 coat of red oxide and 3 coats of engine enamel
I striped and rebuilt the head fitting new valve guide seals just to be sure, cleaned up all the threads and swapped over all the studs.
A few hours after having all the right bits and it's back together. New oil, filter, antifreeze, plugs and fuel filter to finish the job.
Video here >>>[video]http://www.facebook.com/v/10150162787044447[/video]
I got bored waiting for the head so the block has been painted including the gearbox, the starter motor, alternator and distributor have been overhauled and painted, radiator cowl painted all rubber fuel hoses replaced and all the engine steady bushes.
Next up I bought a modified plenum chamber, blanked off the overboost valve and fitted a Bailey dump valve.
Managed to finally get a decent stage 4 head with only 2000 miles since being built. I drove all the way to Telford and back one evening to get the head as I didn't want to risk getting another cracked head to add to my growing collection of scrap cast iron!
30mm Nitrided stainless steel race exhaust valves
36mm Nitrided stainess steel race inlet vlaves with waisted stems
28cc Chambers, Silicon bronze bullet nosed guides with boss restrictions removed, 3 angle valve seats, 185lb double springs and polished / ported
The only problem with the head is that it was missing a hole for a water temperature sensor being a metro turbo head so Dickie from West Sussex Mini Club kindly drilled and tapped the hole for me.
I stripped the head bare which is very hard work getting that enamel engine paint all off. I used a screwdriver as a scraper, wire brush and paint stripper and a lot of elbow grease.
The instructions on the paint can stated warm up engine before applying paint and as the head was not in the car the wife's oven done the trick
I applied 2 coats of acid etch primer, 1 coat of red oxide and 3 coats of engine enamel
I striped and rebuilt the head fitting new valve guide seals just to be sure, cleaned up all the threads and swapped over all the studs.
A few hours after having all the right bits and it's back together. New oil, filter, antifreeze, plugs and fuel filter to finish the job.
Video here >>>[video]http://www.facebook.com/v/10150162787044447[/video]
Last edited by millermilla on Wed Jan 19, 2011 9:59 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Keith Miller
Re: R1067 Winter workshop
Hi,
I can´t see any pics
I want to see your work!
I can´t see any pics
I want to see your work!
wanted: Radio, front speaker, heater cover panel and radio panel
for sale: Castrol Sticker
- millermilla
- Posts: 182
- Joined: Mon May 07, 2007 10:16 pm
- Location: Burgess Hill West Sussex
Re: R1067 Winter workshop
I wondered what make of engine paint you used and would you recomend it ? The colour from the pictures looks good, do you think it looks like the original paint.
- millermilla
- Posts: 182
- Joined: Mon May 07, 2007 10:16 pm
- Location: Burgess Hill West Sussex
Re: R1067 Winter workshop
The engine paint is just Halfords own engine enamel but it is a pretty good match to the original and I've used it before on other cars and it goes on well and does not crack, peel etc.
Keith Miller
Re: R1067 Winter workshop
Thanks, have you tried it on bare metal?. Is this the paint in the link ?
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... yId_165495
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... yId_165495
- millermilla
- Posts: 182
- Joined: Mon May 07, 2007 10:16 pm
- Location: Burgess Hill West Sussex