Hi Arrian,
I welded the boss for the sensor into the downpipe at the bend and the tail of the sensor protrudes into the large hole in the rear of the subframe where it mounts to the body. It fits nicely there.
Restoration R1028
Re: Restoration R1028
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Re: Restoration R1028
I have fitted the richer needle BCA and the green 12oz spring today and it has stopped the backfire and the AFR meter shows it is running at a good mixture at steady throttle and acceptable levels through the range. No cause for concern when you know what your engine is doing 
Now off to play with the ignition map.
Now off to play with the ignition map.
Re: Restoration R1028
Hi Arrian
This is the inlet thermometer I used
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AIR-CHARGE-IN ... 1484wt_991
There are cheaper around but they all seem to be 5v and not 12v.
I have mounted the sensor in the plenum through the dump valve connection. I have fabricated a copper wire holder for it as I don't trust that it won’t drop off into the carb inlet.
You could mount the sensor anywhere really to monitor all sorts of areas, external ,under bonnet etc.
There are possibly other gauges that would fit. A green digital display would look good
This is the inlet thermometer I used
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AIR-CHARGE-IN ... 1484wt_991
There are cheaper around but they all seem to be 5v and not 12v.
I have mounted the sensor in the plenum through the dump valve connection. I have fabricated a copper wire holder for it as I don't trust that it won’t drop off into the carb inlet.
You could mount the sensor anywhere really to monitor all sorts of areas, external ,under bonnet etc.
There are possibly other gauges that would fit. A green digital display would look good
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Re: Restoration R1028
Congratulations! Your car looks excellent - I am looking forward to seeing it at a show in the future.
Re: Restoration R1028
An update on R1028
Job complete.
I have refinished the body kit after the appalling job Pool Lane Classics did on it (as they did on rest of the car).
I found there were quite a few voids between the gel coat and the glass fibre. Those I could identify I dug out and filled. I suspect there could be more but I will not be able to discover them until they erupt, if they ever do.
I found I had to spray just two pieces at a time as I don’t have the luxury of a large garage. I found that spraying primer and base-coat no problem at all. The clear coat was pretty hard to do as it is very difficult to see as it is sprayed on. I have sprayed cellulose a few times in the past and the 2K and the acrylic are probably a little easier. The complicated shapes of the body kit don’t make it an easy job to learn clear coat spraying.
Anyway, job done
A local good body shop quoted me £600 to prep and spray the kit. It cost me just under £150 plus my time to do the job.
I am glad I did it myself as I haven’t worked with fiberglass before and it gives you a very good idea of the fragility of the kit. I haven’t done it but I can see there are a lot of places that could probably do with extra fiberglass laying on to give extra strength. I will see what condition it is in at the end of the season before I do any more if needed.
I have finished the boot lining. This went well and I am very pleased with the result. I need to adjust the petrol tank cover as it is causing the carpet to flatten on the boot lid.
Has anyone any idea of where the rear water bottle was sourced from? I have one but it is a little in the chunky side.
I haven't run the car much, just enough to prove the reliability. I thought it was ok until I took it out for a couple of hours the other day to check out a local rolling road. When I got back home I noticed there was a water leak. I traced it to the water pump. It was leaking from the weep hole. This was annoying as it is a new pump bought from mini-spares. I bought it a long time ago so there is nothing I can do. When I checked it after taking it off there was play in the bearing. The pump I have on now is a genuine Rover pump. I hope they are not all put together by the same manufacturer.
Anyway back to the rolling road.
I went to see the set up they had and to see if they could handle the Aldon Amethyst system I have on the car. They seemed to know what they were doing and were interested in the ERA story.
All set up now and running in and I am really enjoying driving it.
It has taken a long time but We got there in the end.
Thanks again for everyone's help and input. I couldn't have done it without you all. Thanks again.
Last set of photos on this thread.
Job complete.
I have refinished the body kit after the appalling job Pool Lane Classics did on it (as they did on rest of the car).
I found there were quite a few voids between the gel coat and the glass fibre. Those I could identify I dug out and filled. I suspect there could be more but I will not be able to discover them until they erupt, if they ever do.
I found I had to spray just two pieces at a time as I don’t have the luxury of a large garage. I found that spraying primer and base-coat no problem at all. The clear coat was pretty hard to do as it is very difficult to see as it is sprayed on. I have sprayed cellulose a few times in the past and the 2K and the acrylic are probably a little easier. The complicated shapes of the body kit don’t make it an easy job to learn clear coat spraying.
Anyway, job done
A local good body shop quoted me £600 to prep and spray the kit. It cost me just under £150 plus my time to do the job.
I am glad I did it myself as I haven’t worked with fiberglass before and it gives you a very good idea of the fragility of the kit. I haven’t done it but I can see there are a lot of places that could probably do with extra fiberglass laying on to give extra strength. I will see what condition it is in at the end of the season before I do any more if needed.
I have finished the boot lining. This went well and I am very pleased with the result. I need to adjust the petrol tank cover as it is causing the carpet to flatten on the boot lid.
Has anyone any idea of where the rear water bottle was sourced from? I have one but it is a little in the chunky side.
I haven't run the car much, just enough to prove the reliability. I thought it was ok until I took it out for a couple of hours the other day to check out a local rolling road. When I got back home I noticed there was a water leak. I traced it to the water pump. It was leaking from the weep hole. This was annoying as it is a new pump bought from mini-spares. I bought it a long time ago so there is nothing I can do. When I checked it after taking it off there was play in the bearing. The pump I have on now is a genuine Rover pump. I hope they are not all put together by the same manufacturer.
Anyway back to the rolling road.
I went to see the set up they had and to see if they could handle the Aldon Amethyst system I have on the car. They seemed to know what they were doing and were interested in the ERA story.
All set up now and running in and I am really enjoying driving it.
It has taken a long time but We got there in the end.
Thanks again for everyone's help and input. I couldn't have done it without you all. Thanks again.
Last set of photos on this thread.
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Re: Restoration R1028
Looking Good.
Glad to hear its running right now
Glad to hear its running right now
Re: Restoration R1028
Now I can post again I will do a few updates over the next few weeks
Re: Restoration R1028
In 2012 when I was restoring the car I replaced most of the rubber fuel pipes. In 20018 I was getting the car ready for Himley hall I started it up and it spewed fuel out from under the rear of the car. On investigation all the pipes I had renewed had perished. The original pipes I had left in the engine bay were still in perfect condition. I can only assume the pipes I replaced were cheap chinese rubber. I have now decided to only use Gates rubber pipes in future or silicon for the cooling system.
Re: Restoration R1028
Wow thats a great read I hope mine turns out that good PS where did you find the carpet please as when removing mine it came apart like Knitting when needled are pulled so I have been trying to find some cheers Mark
Re: Restoration R1028
Hi R1036,
I got the carpet from a company called Coverdale. They have a range of carpet colours and qualities. I decided on Blenheim Flint Grey. It is not an exact match but very close. I got the guy who reupholstered my seats to cut and edge bind the carpets. He took patterns of everything needed in the car and cut and bound it. I cut the carpet for the boot as it is not bound. I ordered 6 meters. As far as I can remember there wasn't that much left over because you have to cut it so the carpet runs all in the same direction. If you dont it looks like there are two different shades. I was tempted to go for a thicker more luxurious carpet but my upholsterer advised me not to as it is more difficult to handle and to bend around the places like the back boxes and crossmember where it is stuck and to get it to lie well over the tunnel. My upholsterer sourced the carpet binding for me. Coverdale will send samples to you if you need them.
The link is
https://www.carcarpets.co.uk/blenheim-r ... -183-c.asp
The most difficult thing is getting a good upholsterer at a competitive price. The guy I used gave up the business shortly after doing my work.(ill health) I asked him did he want me to pass his name on to other ERA owners and he said." I don't want to do another one of those it was difficult" That was the leather seats of course
I notice that coverdale do a mini carpet set. I wonder if it could be utilised for the ERA. It would need to be cut for the extra seat crossmember and extra carpet used for it. I suppose it is possible. Worth enquiring maybe they could work to a pattern from you.
I got the carpet from a company called Coverdale. They have a range of carpet colours and qualities. I decided on Blenheim Flint Grey. It is not an exact match but very close. I got the guy who reupholstered my seats to cut and edge bind the carpets. He took patterns of everything needed in the car and cut and bound it. I cut the carpet for the boot as it is not bound. I ordered 6 meters. As far as I can remember there wasn't that much left over because you have to cut it so the carpet runs all in the same direction. If you dont it looks like there are two different shades. I was tempted to go for a thicker more luxurious carpet but my upholsterer advised me not to as it is more difficult to handle and to bend around the places like the back boxes and crossmember where it is stuck and to get it to lie well over the tunnel. My upholsterer sourced the carpet binding for me. Coverdale will send samples to you if you need them.
The link is
https://www.carcarpets.co.uk/blenheim-r ... -183-c.asp
The most difficult thing is getting a good upholsterer at a competitive price. The guy I used gave up the business shortly after doing my work.(ill health) I asked him did he want me to pass his name on to other ERA owners and he said." I don't want to do another one of those it was difficult" That was the leather seats of course
I notice that coverdale do a mini carpet set. I wonder if it could be utilised for the ERA. It would need to be cut for the extra seat crossmember and extra carpet used for it. I suppose it is possible. Worth enquiring maybe they could work to a pattern from you.