Found my ERA (

[Thomas_hmlo]

Just sharing a quick update.
The misty fuel gauge is gone.

[Thomas_hmlo]

Sorry for no update for a while. Couple of updates to share.

a. My turbo carb has air leak and running super rich. Ordered a back up carb from AVR and waiting for delivery since end of January 2014. While performed a quick fix by blocking up the hole in the carb (5 o'clock) position, I noticed the car is having some flat spot when acceleration. Driving gently is OK at this moment.


b. Pick up two sets of used ERA body kits from my mechanic for FREE!


c. Could not resist the temptation and got a NOS ERA boot batch. Well.... quite expensive lol


d. Got a spare anti run on value.


e. Got extra 7 pcs ERA alloy wheels with center caps

[arrian]

Wow you found quite a cache of spare parts. I couldn't tell which hole you blocked off, was it the part throttle lean-off tube on the top of the carb? I have seen those anti-run on valves used on other rover cars, I think they were part of the emissions system as my friends rover 220 turbo had one connected to the charcoal canister.

[G96LUE]

Where did you get the anti run on valve?
Do they have any more?

I haven't managed to find one yet.

[Thomas_hmlo]

The hole in the carb I blocked is at the top of the photo.
When I blow air to the middle hole - where the carb needle is located using a silicon tube, gasoline came out from the hole at the top of the photo. My mechanic told me to block it off first to avoid flooding the carb. He experienced before the same problem.



The anti run on valve - I got it from eBay.

[Thomas_hmlo]

Finally took the time to install the aluminium badge at the boot!!

The boot lid has curvy surface. Need to bend the badge a little but to fit the contour.

Sharing here some photo.

[paul]

looks great did you dismantle fuel gauge and clean or replace with new, if so from what source?

[Thomas_hmlo]

Dear Paul,
I took apart the fuel gauge and clean it myself.
Taking it apart is relatively easy as long as the tool is correct.
With the black rim off, everything is pretty straight forward. Just make sure the small parts are not flying away. When I cleaned mine, I broke the green bulb diffuser. Used some glue to fix it.
Putting that back together also requires right tools. With a piece of towel to prevent the rim from being damage.

Definitely worth the effort. But after cleaning this gauge it is still hard to see the gas level at night.
Plus a clean gas gauge makes the other vdo looks relatively dirty.

[Thomas_hmlo]

No update for a while.

Spent last two days working on my Mini. So far replaced the carb, adjusted
the fuel pressure regulator to 4 psi, changed the spark plugs, spark plug
cables, also replaced the ECU hose. Clean the pipe which connects to turbo
bar gauge. Checked all the vacuum hose for leakage. The car is running
much better now. Also checked the turbo air blow seems to be strong.

But as I saw ERA turbo website, people said they can get 0.7 bar!
Unfortunately mine cannot even go beyond 0.1 bar.

I have a spare turbo boost modulator - that is mounted next to the radiator.
The boost modulator has two wires connects to it. And there is a metal
outlet on one side and a flow stone at the other side. The spare boost
control valve when not connected to wiring and i tried to blow air from the
tube, I feel it is blocked. While the other boost control valve in my car is
exactly the opposite. Any chance to know which is correct?

One more thing. When driving with standard engine set up, will you see the turbo kicks in even at the first gear?
What is the max boost when it kicks in?

Sharing some photo here


This is the spare boost modulator I got. Not connect to any wire, I connect the port with a tube and blow thru it. It seems not able to blow thru. Is that normal?


This is the spacer between carb and the inlet manifold. Mine shows some cracking. Now asking my friend to make some in aluminium.


Found a spare air box. My mechanic gave it to me as spare.


Rebuilt carb from AVR vs carb removed from my car
Noticed the difference on the round throttle cover? I was being told using the copper version will have problem to standard ERA?

[era1097]

About the boost modulator.
The waste gate actuator on the turbo will open when a boost of 0,3 is achieved bij the turbo around 2500 rpm.
This pressure will continue until around 4500 rpm.
Than the ecu kicks in and opens the boost moduloter and will there fore create a boost of around 0,5 bar.
This is done to keep the torque low at low rpm to safe the gearbox.
The boost modulator shoullt not let air through when there is no electricitie on it.
I hope this will help.