Wiring to coil, oil, and others connections

[prop]

I think we could do with a good look at the wiring on our cars as there doesn't seem to any information on it. era1097 posted the question about the connections in Restoration era 1097. I replied with what I have but I am not convinced my wiring is correct. I thought the resistive wire went to the coil. On my car it doesn't.
As I mentioned it has been messed with.
As I am also close to finishing, I to need to know the correct connections. Is there any chance someone can give some photos and or diagrams and text.
It will be a great help.
I have looked at the wiring diagram on this site but each time I cannot make it fit my car. I don't have purple and white to the starter it goes to the oil warning sensor I have white yellow to the starter.
Probably wrong but it did run like that. HELP

[prop]

The microfiche quotes a coil GCL 139. At the moment I can find little info on it. It looks like a non ballast coil. Anyone got any info on their coils.

[arrian]

My car is in storage about 200k's away so I can't check on the wiring. However I do know that it has a non-ballast type ignition coil fitted. It is currently fitted with an old gold lucas sports coil which it has always had since I've owned it.

[prop]

So the way the ballast resistor wire could be correct

[an old original]

The coil issue is interesting as in the Rover workshop manual it shows the coil as GCL 143 which is available from Mini Spares, Somerford and Rimmer Bros and probably other places as well.

I've attached an "adjusted" version of the appropriate microfiche page. It's part of a small project I've been at for a while, going through each page and cleaning it up a bit so the numbers are more legible and cross referencing part number through suppliers. The page with the coil on is actually the one I've just done

As far as the wiring goes, I'll try and get out & have a look at mine when it stops raining to see if I can advise further

[prop]

As you say interesting, And well done.

I popped into my local motor spares shop this morning to see if they had any information on ignition coils. Their catalogues don’t give any spec but list the coil ref numbers for different manufacturers.
Lucas DLB 198
Bosch 0- 221 122 360/390
0-221 122 334/364
127 020 015
0-221 118 307/327
Intermotor 11410
GCL143
I suspect the different numbers are for the different connections on the coil, blade, male, female, round push on etc the actual coil properties are the same.
I did find a reference on the net that stated the 65dm4 needs a 1 ohm coil to work properly
So the GCL 143 DLB198 seem to hit the spot.
I don’t have the original distributor fitted by ERA I have the Metro dizzy. I think the only difference was the advance curve. That won’t matter if I have the Aldon system

I did find the Intermotor site and with a little cross referencing you can get a lot of information. It looks like a dry coil and not a wet one.(you learn somthing new every day) http://www.intermotor.co.uk/

Now I need confirmation of what connects to what

[an old original]

I've had a quick look at mine from the top and I'm sorry to say that it does seem to tie in with the wiring diagram on here.
Be warned though as some wires have been chopped & extended over time so the colours you can see might not be what you expect, but I'll try to expain which is which.


In the 1st, on the coil, there's a white/black and a white (actually red) on the top and the two underneath (which are brown on mine as that was the only wire I had!) which go to the module on the dizzy. Please don't comment on the state of them, I know it does need a bit of a sort out!!!

White/Brown to the oil pressure switch (with a white extension!) in the 2nd pic.

If the weather's decent on Sunday I'll take the grill out and have a look at what's what further down, solenoid etc....

[prop]

Thanks,
I know its slow but the more I look and the more I read about it the better it is sinking in to my old brain.
White purple goes to the solenoid on the starter. (mine wasn’t).
If the rest are correct then the two redundant wires white/yellow white/black are correct also.

[kayball]

Hi all.
Some of our cars seem to have some discrepancy from the original wiring, which after all this time, is not surprising! I drew out the diagram in Technical on this site and it is a simplified layout of the drawing from the original ERA wiring published by Rover in their "Mini Repair Manual" AKM6353, dated 1989. This manual does cover the ERA Mini Turbo in detail as indicated on the front sheet. It even shows the wiring for the dash board. There are not many of these manuals about, but they do surface from time to time. (Boasting: I have two, at different stages of amendment.)
I have re-checked my original drawing and can assure you that it is correct as regarding wiring colours and detail as shown in the previously detailed document.

Regarding the Ignition Coil and its associated wiring. It is NOT a ballasted coil and the Black/White is a normal wire. In fact, a ‘ballasted wire’ on other Minis is shown as coloured Pink/White.
I cannot as yet post these diagrams as they are in an extended 'A3' format, measuring some 30 inches (760mm) in length by 11.3/4 inches (298mm) in height; with 4 folds to incorporate them into the manual. I will eventually get them reduced in a print shop and post them. Unfortunately, their format is alien to most non electrical readers as most circuit details are interrupted with numbered triangles which link various connections together without drawing them. It’s a question of hunting for the matching triangle!
To further clarify my drawing on this site, the fuses shown and numbered 1-2, and 3-4 are the fuses located in the fuse box on the engine bulkhead. 1-2 is at the top of the box and 7-8 at the bottom. The one in-line fuse is marked on the drawing going to terminal 87 of the Fuel Pump relay.
This fuse, which normally hangs loose above the carburettor, connects to the input side of fuse 3-4 and is therefore always live. If this fuse is corroded, as it often is, there is no supply to the Fuel Pump via the relay when energised and a classic symptom is that the engine will run for about 20 seconds each time it is started and then stops. This is because of the following circuit action:-
Each turn of the Ignition Key to position III applies power to the Fuel Pump via the Starter Relay contacts, which fills the carb bowl with fuel. The engine starts, the key is released and the supply to the pump via the Starter Relay is removed. The alternative supply which should be supplied via the Ballast resistor from the now energised Fuel Pump Relay, is missing, due to the corroded or blown in-line fuse. The fuel in the bowl is used up, and the engine then stops. Re-starting the engine causes this cycle to repeat. Our car had this problem when we bought it and, to add to the confusion, it was also intermittent due to a corroded fuse holder!

[prop]

AKM 6353 found it!
You can download the manual in pdf on this site.
It’s a big one 42.56MB.
I should have had this years ago.

More photos of wiring connections would help though.

http://www.minicoopersofmiami.com/MINI_ ... _76-89.pdf