Hi, just getting around to commisioning my era mini after many years stored.
Think my fuel pump isn't activating because of faulty fuel pump relay, can anyone tell me where this is located?
Location of Fuel Pump Relay
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Ian Wheelwright
- Posts: 33
- Joined: Mon Feb 26, 2007 8:03 pm
Re: Location of Fuel Pump Relay
Hi its behind the dash in the centre its a yellow relay but if the car has been standing it may well be the pump you should hear it click when you put the ignition on if its ok
Re: Location of Fuel Pump Relay
Had fuel pump off and tested fine! Found prob with ballast resistor, rusted and no continuity so replaced it with new one, in line fuse also springs rusted and broken so replaced with new one, now located the Hella pump relay and will maybe replace if I can find equivelant. I'll re-check the ful pump before I do. Ta! Not getting any click sound as yet!
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an old original
- Posts: 110
- Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2012 6:13 pm
Re: Location of Fuel Pump Relay
If you've got the dash out you should see 2 identical relays, one is the fuel pump the other is for the main beam. So if all your lights work ok, including the main beam, swap over the relays & try again. If the lights still work you can probably rule out a problem with the relay.
Re: Location of Fuel Pump Relay
Probably telling you something you already know, and this is covered in great detail under the technical tab on this site - but I had to read it several times to understand so let me re-state it in my simple terms!
In order for the fuel pump to run you must have oil pressure - this is to protect the engine in the event of loss of oil pressure. Therefore in the cranking phase whilst oil pressure is building a temporary supply is provided to the fuel pump, when the engine starts the supply through the oil pressure switch keeps the fuel pump running. This is why in a healthy ERA the oil pressure warning light stays on for about 15 seconds after starting. It is possible to get the car started by providing a temporary supply to the fuel pump since it normally runs all the time with excess fuel returned to the tank. The fuel returns to the tank near the petrol filler neck, so if you remove the cap and listen carefully when you first switch the ignition on you should hear fuel being returned to the tank.
In a car that has been standing for a while I would be concerned about stale fuel and rust and debris released from inside the tank by filling with new fuel. It always struck me as odd that there is no fuel filter between the tank and the pump - so any debris from the tank will be drawn straight into the pump.
The fuel filter should be directly behind the plenum chamber which is attached to the carb. I cant remember the exact spec for the fuel filter something like a diesel 90s Vauxhall - but you should replace it so that you can see what is going on.
Once you have fuel to the carb you might find that a rebuild kit available from Burlen Fuels will help with any running or emissions problems you may have.
Good luck! What number is yours?
In order for the fuel pump to run you must have oil pressure - this is to protect the engine in the event of loss of oil pressure. Therefore in the cranking phase whilst oil pressure is building a temporary supply is provided to the fuel pump, when the engine starts the supply through the oil pressure switch keeps the fuel pump running. This is why in a healthy ERA the oil pressure warning light stays on for about 15 seconds after starting. It is possible to get the car started by providing a temporary supply to the fuel pump since it normally runs all the time with excess fuel returned to the tank. The fuel returns to the tank near the petrol filler neck, so if you remove the cap and listen carefully when you first switch the ignition on you should hear fuel being returned to the tank.
In a car that has been standing for a while I would be concerned about stale fuel and rust and debris released from inside the tank by filling with new fuel. It always struck me as odd that there is no fuel filter between the tank and the pump - so any debris from the tank will be drawn straight into the pump.
The fuel filter should be directly behind the plenum chamber which is attached to the carb. I cant remember the exact spec for the fuel filter something like a diesel 90s Vauxhall - but you should replace it so that you can see what is going on.
Once you have fuel to the carb you might find that a rebuild kit available from Burlen Fuels will help with any running or emissions problems you may have.
Good luck! What number is yours?
Re: Location of Fuel Pump Relay
R1025 I've owned it since '91.
Sorted the fuel prob by doing the bits I mentioned at the start of this feed, + stripped the carb down and found the float chamber varnished up solid, cleaned out and ok, started and ran fine.
Carried on with other stuff like brake cylinders, clutch cylinder, clutch arm, pivots etc. and finally got it out to test today.
Last and final problems are fuel delivery is not keeping up with demand, can see this even at tick over in the clear filter unit.
Plenty of fuel coming up to the regulator from the pump, and fuel is a slow trickle back along the return.
I'm suspecting the fuel regulator unless anyone on here has any suggestions.
Or the ecu?
The other glitches are front wheel bearing slight tick/click, so will do both before MOT.
Tracking will need sorting too, excessive wear on the inside treads... but then I could never get that set up right, I had 2 MG turbos which were the same!! Shame to chuck a pair of Goodyear NCT's out when they are 90% perfect... Huh!
Sorted the fuel prob by doing the bits I mentioned at the start of this feed, + stripped the carb down and found the float chamber varnished up solid, cleaned out and ok, started and ran fine.
Carried on with other stuff like brake cylinders, clutch cylinder, clutch arm, pivots etc. and finally got it out to test today.
Last and final problems are fuel delivery is not keeping up with demand, can see this even at tick over in the clear filter unit.
Plenty of fuel coming up to the regulator from the pump, and fuel is a slow trickle back along the return.
I'm suspecting the fuel regulator unless anyone on here has any suggestions.
Or the ecu?
The other glitches are front wheel bearing slight tick/click, so will do both before MOT.
Tracking will need sorting too, excessive wear on the inside treads... but then I could never get that set up right, I had 2 MG turbos which were the same!! Shame to chuck a pair of Goodyear NCT's out when they are 90% perfect... Huh!